HEALDSBURG, CA – Welcome to the New Healdsburg…Who knew?

On approach to the Santa Rosa Airport on a typical Sonoma County day.

On approach to the Santa Rosa Airport on a typical Sonoma County day.  Morning coastal fog still burning off.  The climate, helped by fresh ocean breezes, results in thriving vineyards.

Not so long ago, Healdsburg, California was a sleepy town on the banks of the Russian River on the north end of Sonoma County. A few wineries like Italian Swiss Colony, Seghesio and Korbel were familiar names but more winemaking was happening over the hill in the Napa Valley, which has gained global fame.

The chic and comfortable Hotel Healdsburg was designed to fit into the Town Square area.

The chic and comfortable Hotel Healdsburg was designed to fit into the Town Square area.

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The chic and comfortable Hotel Healdsburg was designed to fit into the Town Square area.

Easy to relax anywhere in the lobby and adjacent lounge in the Healdsburg Hotel.

Not so much anymore. Healdsburg and vicinity have arrived. The town itself now boasts a world-class hotel in the chic Hotel Healdsburg and a stable of top restaurants like Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen, Spoonbar, the newish Valette and others.  With a tree-covered Norman Rockwell-ish town square (free Wi-Fi) surrounded by an old-timey bakery, a gourmet ice cream shop, art galleries, chic clothing and unique furnishing shops such as The Shed, Healdsburg is hosting international visitors without the traffic jams and tasting room crowding sometimes found elsewhere in the region.

 

At the Hotel Healdsburg we experienced a very comfortable stay and were impressed with the range of guests, from young families with dogs (the hotel is pet-friendly) to older folks savoring the peace and quiet of the Sonoma wine country. The hotel was designed to fit well with the rest of the town square area and the rooms are spacious and well-appointed.

Breakfasts at the hotel are a casual affair in the spacious lobby bar area, complete with made-to-order omelet and waffle stations and an array of fresh fruits and bakery products.

Bicycles are provided by the hotel and, with a location right on the square, stores and restaurants are an easy, enjoyable stroll nearby. The Spa is another amenity offered by the hotel, with an excellent staff and an outstanding array of body and beauty products, some with local Meyer lemon and sage ingredients.

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Two wineries that have become synonymous with Healdsburg are the now legendary Seghesio Family Vineyards and the Jordan Vineyard & Winery. The Seghesio winery and tasting room are right in town and the hosted Family Tables program is something to experience. Every Friday through Sunday, by reservation, Seghesio serves seasonal family recipes paired with their most limited wines in a lovely setting. Our locally-sourced menu included an arugula and fennel salad with spring radishes, first crop strawberries, almonds and chèvre followed by a second course of pappardelle with spring lamb and fava bean ragout. Midnight Moon Cheese from Cypress Grove Creamery with a cherry compote, coffee and house made truffles finished the meal. Executive Chef Peter Janiak oversees the food and the serving staff is top notch and informed. Wines paired with our courses included tastings of the 2012 Burnside Road Pinot Noir, 2005 Chianti Station, 2010 Block 8 Zinfandel, 2007 Home Ranch Petite Sirah and the famous 2009 Home Ranch Zinfandel.

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Edoardo Seghesio, who planted his first vines in the valley in 1895, would be very proud of his 4th generation winemaker, Ted Seghesio, the latest of an uninterrupted line of Seghesio family cellar masters.

The authentic Jordan Winery chateau.

The beautiful Jordan Winery chateau, housing the winery, offices, elegant dining rooms, library and kitchen.

Just a few minutes outside Healdsburg and up an elegant winding entrance off Alexander Valley Road sits the stunning chateau of the Jordan Vineyard and Winery. This is not some faux knockoff, but 58,000 square feet of working winery, intimate gourmet dining and living focused on the compatible crafts of winemaking, sustainable agriculture and hospitality. Originally the vision of Tom and Sally Jordan in the early 1970’s, the vineyards, now under the guidance of son John Jordan and long-time winemaker Rob Davis, produce only two wines: Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, in the French tradition. Year after year Jordan wines have won prestigious awards. They are regularly served at The White House and appear on the wine lists of most fine restaurants.

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The Jordan Winery Winemaker Rob Davis, celebrated his 40th Jordan harvest in 2015.

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View of Mt. St. Helena from The Jordan Vineyards and Winery.

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Further, John Jordan and his team have brought the winery into the 21st century by establishing a solar panel array that supplies nearly 90 percent of the entire operations electrical needs and have established a certified program of sustainable farming on the property.

The Jordan Estate itself includes 112 acres of grapevines, 18 acres of olive trees (producing their own Extra Virgin Olive Oil), two lakes and a robust 1-acre garden, supplying the kitchen with organic vegetables. Chef Todd Knoll oversees the cuisine at Jordan Winery and his talents are evident in the dining room and on the winery and estate tours. Tours range from a 90-minute walking and seated library tasting to a 3-hour estate tour to all parts of the vineyards, with its spectacular views and includes tastings and food pairings at scenic stops along the tour. Jordan Winery has also partnered with the Hotel Healdsburg to offer a Farm to Fork Culinary Journey from June through October that includes the estate tour and tasting dinner at Dry Creek Kitchen along with a 2-night stay at the hotel.

Overnight stays at the magnificent chateau are part of a generous rewards program created by the winery. 

Chef Todd Knoll supervises all the food at The Jordan Winery. Chef Knoll has established a sustainable agriculture program that now includes both garden and livestock.

Chef Todd Knoll supervises all the food at the Jordan Vineyard and Winery. Chef Knoll and John Jordan have established a sustainable agriculture program that now includes both garden and livestock.

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Part of a tasting featuring paired food items with Jordan Winery vintages.

 

 

 

A view from the chateau over the garden, livestock fields with the olive orchard and vineyards beyond.

A view from the chateau over the garden, livestock fields with the olive orchard and vineyards beyond at Jordan Vineyard and Winery.

In addition to the remarkable Farm to Table meal we enjoyed at Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen (created by Executive Chef Andrew Wilson), we strolled from the Hotel Healdsburg down to Spoonbar (named for artist Ned Khan’s 2000 espresso-spoon water sculpture installation) and enjoyed artisan cocktails in the bar and a delicious locally-sourced meal by Executive Chef Louis Maldonado.

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Spoon Bar is a great local watering hole (and restaurant) in the H2 Hotel, sister to the Hotel Healdsburg.

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Master Mixologist Tara brings a two-fisted passion for her profession behind the plank at Healdsburg’s Spoon Bar.

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Spoon Bar, so named for the remarkable water sculpture made from espresso spoons.

Across the street from Spoonbar is another notable restaurant called Mateo’s, with its Yucatan-influenced cuisine and al fresco dining as well as a popular Tequila Bar. We also got a chance to sample the great menu at Healdsburg newest eatery, Valette, a gorgeous place run by Chef Dustin Valette and his brother Aaron. The one piece salvaged California redwood bar is dazzling. Across the street from Valette is a great tapas and cocktail bar called Bravas which, like Spoonbar, is a popular social hub.

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Dustin Valette and his brother Aaron run the kitchen and front of the house at their terrific new Healdsburg eatery.

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The solid plank of California Redwood that forms the bar at Valette was rescued from a shed out on the Northern California coast.

As you can tell, you’re not going to go hungry or thirsty in today’s Healdsburg, and we barely scratched the surface here. It is a peaceful town with the Russian River nearby.  Alaska Airlines flies direct to the nearby Santa Rosa Airport.

World-class wineries and food set in the extraordinary northern Sonoma Valley is a recipe for an excellent getaway.

When you go:

Hotel Healdsburg

Mateo’s Cocina Latina

The Jordan Vineyard and Winery

Bravas Tapas Restaurant

Seghesio Family Vineyards

Spoon Bar

Healdsburg Visitors Bureau

Valette Restaurant

Dry Creek Kitchen

Desert, Ocean and Luxury at the Tip of Baja, California

Sunrise at Cabo San Lucas

Sunrise at Cabo San Lucas

When you go to “Cabo”, the first phrase in Spanish you should know, after “Gracias” and “Por Favor” are, “¿Es Usted Choyero?” This is a great conversation starter as it means “Are you Baja born?” “Choyero” derives its name from the beautiful and ubiquitous Cholla cactus of the Baja Peninsula. Choyeros are very proud of their State of Baja, the youngest state in the Mexican federation. Before becoming the Free and Sovereign State of Baja California in 1953, it was a wild, sparsely populated territory ruled by the powers in Mexico City.

Our AirTran flight from the very traveler-friendly Orange County Airport took us over enough of Baja to convince anyone it is still very sparsely populated. Most of Baja is still a wild expanse of desert, mountains, washes and tiny clumps of ranch houses and small towns beautifully sandwiched between a blue Pacific Ocean and an equally “azul” Mar de Cortez. It is easy to shake one’s head and wonder why this gorgeous 27,000 square miles has not been developed more. But, then, it wouldn’t be such a treasure of a place. A good exercise is to open a Baja roadmap and see what that 1000 miles between the U.S. border and Cabo San Lucas looks like. You can draw your own conclusions.

Los Arcos, Lands End, Cabo San Lucas

Los Arcos, Lands End, Cabo San Lucas

But let’s get to the luxury part before our thoughts get too parched. Most readers have a good sense of Cabo San Lucas’ location at the tip of Baja; but CSL is only half the story. San Jose Del Cabo, where most people arrive by air, is a wonderful old Mexican town that anchors the other end of the ocean road along Baja’s southern tip. The visitor accomodations that sit, beachfront, along this corridor are our next topic.

The Sheraton Hacienda Del Mar.

The Sheraton Hacienda Del Mar.

Our two most recent experiences included a pair of Starwood resorts, the Sheraton Hacienda Del Mar Golf and Spa Resort Los Cabos and the Westin Resort and Spa Los Cabos. Both sit on dramatic beaches (mind the color of the cautionary flags) and offer distinctly different styles of accomodations.

Colonial styles at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar.

Colonial styles at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar.

Apply named because of its “old Mexico” ambience, the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar, on Tortuga Beach, gave us a cozy feel. We appreciated the use of tile, wrought iron, cobblestones and fountains incorporated into the overall concept. Some beautiful artwork and artifacts also enhance the feeling of a traditional Mexican establishment. One could imagine a honeymoon here and, yet, we saw families enjoying the amenities such as the “Kids Pool” and the “Kids Club,” candidly a relief for those of us who seek the quieter aspects of a resort. Clearly, the Sheraton folks have this figured out. We were impressed with the tranquility of this property from the moment we checked in.

Infinity pool at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar.

Infinity pool at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar.

Our first night’s meal was a splendid one at the resort’s 5-Diamond De Cortez Mesquite grill, with its lovely terrace by the ocean. With lower Baja’s dependably good weather, meals like this are dreamy. We experienced Executive Chef Manuel de Luca’s menu executed by Chef Salvador Campozano. We began with a creamy lobster bisque followed by a salad of pear, blue cheese, nuts and truffled honey. Before the main course, we tasted a delightful lamb ravioli served with morel mushroom foam and dill.

That’s right, mushroom foam. We chose, for our main course, the Seafood Skillet, in which a delightful menage of lobster tail, shrimp, scallops, mussels and sea bass soak flavorfully in a rum-hinted sauce, served in a fresh coconut. The wines we enjoyed most were reds and whites from Valle de Guadalupe, east of Ensenada in Northern Baja. A passion fruit mousse with fresh berries in a peppercorn crust provided the perfect palate relief after the richness of the main meal. These folks know what they are doing and you are on vacation. Go for it! They will even arrange for your large group to dine on the beach. In a world-class resort, usually all you have to do is ask, and many things can magically be arranged.

Artifacts at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar emphasize the colonial feel of the resort.

Artifacts at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar emphasize the colonial feel of the resort.

General Manager Renato Mendonca, with 30 years in the hotel business, and 5 years at the Sheraton Hacienda, recently oversaw an extensive renovation and the rooms show it. Our ocean-view room had its own terrace and we went to sleep that first night with the doors open to the sound of the dramatic surf. Delicious.

Of particular note at the Hacienda are the wonderful infinity pools and spas that are beachside, with the palapa bar happily nearby. Elbows up on the edge of the infinity pool, gazing out at the ocean, watching the waves break is a tonic. Time for reflection and a soul recharge. This is a good place to do it.

And, on a different scale and style, so is the Westin Los Cabos, our next destination.

Part of the dramatic setting at the Westin Los Cabos.

Part of the dramatic setting at the Westin Los Cabos.

The entrance road to the Westin Los Cabos, winding down from the main (now 4-lane) Los Cabos-San Jose Del Cabo highway, doesn’t quite prepare you for the dramatic plaza that adjoins the grand open-air lobby of this Javier Sordo Madaleno-designed resort.

The colors. As Westin Tour Sales Manager Edward Burgos says, ” The colors of the hotel are blue for the ocean, yellow for the sun and pink for the warmth of the Mexican culture. We couldn’t agree more. It is a stunning architectural achievement.

Soothing colors at the Westin Los Cabos.

Soothing colors at the Westin Los Cabos.

Every room has an ocean view and, like the Sheraton, the Westin is set on a remarkably dramatic beach and sleeping with the sound of waves each night adds value to your stay.

If you are not, by chance, a Starwood member, be sure to join as it is a huge benefit when you stay at a Starwood property such as the Sheraton Hacienda or the Westin Los Cabos. A good example of this is a the great buffet breakfasts at the Westin’s Royal Beach Club. Located in an oversized private suite with a long terrace overlooking the beach, it is an extra treat just for being a Starwood member.

Every room has an ocean view at the Westin Los Cabos.

Every room has an ocean view at the Westin Los Cabos.

During our Westin stay we observed a couple of lovely beach weddings and I asked Westin Event Specialist Juan Pablo Colmenero about their wedding business. He told me that they do about 52 weddings per year but never more than one wedding per day. Recently, he said, they had been hosting as many as 300 people in week-long international wedding celebrations.

We wished we had timed our visit to see one of these wonderful, colorful mixture of cultures on the tip of Baja, California. Mr. Colmenero said the Westin’s kitchen staff had been having a great time working with the East Indian chefs who had been added to the mix. Sounds like a great movie!

In addition to the large weddings, the Westin frequently has a full buy-out from corporate event planners, making the resort a great, private club for a large business gathering. Both the Sheraton Hacienda and the Westin offer complete golf packages with excellent courses and amenities.

The remarkable executive chef Manuel Peruyero oversees all of the food at the Westin. We dined at the La Playa Restaurant and tasted our first “Westin Margarita.” As Margarita aficionados, we agreed that there was a little something extra to them. Fish tacos. Gotta love them, and La Playa serves some great ones, typically made with fresh local sea bass. We also had a chance to enjoy one of the “dinners on the beach” that these hotels are renowned for. The buffet was comprised of nearly more choices than we could handle. Everything from grilled (a la parilla) meats and fish to delicious salsas, fresh guacamole and taco makings, all under the stars, with a lovely firepit nearby. The stunning views from the Westin’s Arrecifes Restaurant is also a must during your stay with its cocktail patio especially appealling. Service throughout the hotel and restaurants is a serious staff committment and a joy for guests.

Like the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar, the Westin Los Cabos can arrange a meal on the beach.

Like the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar, the Westin Los Cabos can arrange a meal on the beach.

The spa at The Westin Resort & Spa provides the pleasurable services you hope for in this soothing destination. Relaxing manicures, pedicures, massages, facials are available in calm, quiet, elegant surroundings. La Señora enjoyed an hour of classic Swedish full body massage in a clean, simple room with delicious aromas. The therapist was an experienced and excellent professional. Other restorative massage types are offered, including deep tissue, hot stone, reflexology and sports massage. After the massage she reluctantly floated off the massage table and downstairs to wake up with sauna, steam, and shower. Fresh, iced water is always handy, and white towels, robes and slippers are provided for comfort and harmony. The Westin is justifiably proud of this spa by the sea.

Importantly, both the Sheraton Hacienda and Westin Los Cabos are fully committed to sustainability and the community. The former sponsors and mentors a charity for parentless children and both hotels make sure extra food gets to both employees and members of the community in need.

So, you want to leave the property? What? Well, if you do, you are in for various wonderful treats. A walk around San Jose del Cabo’s historic district is a rich experience. Clean streets, colorful buildings and a great deal of art. This is an historic Mexican town, a port, and sister city to Cabo San Lucas at the other end of the corridor at the tip of Baja. San Jose del Cabo has some excellent restaurants and even some new places like Rock and Brews for the rock and roll crowd (they serve some good pizza, too).

Rock and Brews, San Jose Del Cabo.

Rock and Brews, San Jose Del Cabo.

Cabo San Lucas fishing fleet will take you deep sea fishing.

Cabo San Lucas fishing fleet will take you deep sea fishing.

At the other end of the sea road corridor there is Cabo San Lucas, with its huge charter fishing fleet, Lover’s Beach at Los Arcos (the arches at the very tip of Baja) and numerous bars and restaurants, including the legendary Squid Row and Giggling Marlin. Our favorite Cabo San Lucas restaurant has long been Mi Casa, serving some delicious authentic Mexican cuisine in a less raucous atmosphere than some of the party bars.

Fresh breads at the Penny Lane Cafe in Cabo San Lucas.

Fresh breads at the Penny Lane Cafe in Cabo San Lucas.

 

 

Rancher Lisa Whitt with fresh goat cheeses at the Penny Lane Cafe's weekly farmer's market.

Rancher Lisa Whitt with fresh goat cheeses at the Penny Lane Cafe’s twice-weekly farmer’s markets.

And here’s a special insider’s tip: Penny Lane Cafe on Camino del Colegio in Cabo San Lucas. Breakfast, lunch and dinner with the best locally sourced, organic ingredients. Twice a week owner Monica Diaz Rivera manages an adjacent organic food market with fresh breads, cheeses, vegetables and other wonderful local foods all sourced from local farms. It was here I met Lisa Whitt who, with her husband, produces a remarkable range of exquisite goat cheeses on their farm about 2 hours from Cabo San Lucas. Another tip: Try the take out pork from Los Michoacanos Carnitas.

For activities such as tours, boating trips, outback adventures etc., the folks at Terramar can arrange everything. Terramar’s website is worth a visit and the experience we had with them was professional and fun. Their staff all speak excellent English (and will help you with your Spanish).

Water tours are easily available from the Cabo San Lucas waterfront.

Water tours are easily available from the Cabo San Lucas waterfront.

And booking a whale-watching trip, in-season can be rewarding.

And booking a whale-watching trip, in-season can be rewarding.

Of, course, don't forget to learn about the grades of tequilas!

Of, course, don’t forget to learn about the grades of tequilas!

Finally, for those of you who are curious about renting a private home in the area (and there are some spectacular ones), Cabo Dreams Rentals impressed us with their offerings and Property Manager Cesar Claro seems to have some of the best places to show. Our favorite was Casa Miramar, which sits high in the exclusive Pedregal community, directly above the beautiful Playa Solmar stretching out to internationally famous Land’s End.

Beautiful Casa Miramar in Cabo San Lucas.   Many homes like this are available for vacation rental.

Beautiful Casa Miramar in Cabo San Lucas. Many homes like this are available for vacation rental.

Baja, California. Always a great idea for a getaway. ¡Buen Viaje!

 

Sheraton Hacienda del Mar: http:/www.sheraton.com/haciendadelmar

Westin Resort & Spa Los Cabos: http://www.westin.com/loscabos

Terramar: http://www.terramardestinations.com

Baja Outback: http://www.bajaoutback.com

Penny Lane Cafe: http://pennylanecafe.com

Cabo Dream Rentals: http://www.cabodreamsrentals.com

Mi Casa: http://www.micasarestaurant.com.mx

AirTran: http://www.airtran.com

Carmel-by-the Sea: Art, History and the Sea

 

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The beautiful cove at Carmel-by-the-Sea

 Carmel-By-The-Sea! Oh, how that rolls off the tongue so easily. If you’ve been there, you know what I mean. Nestled in the shore of Carmel Bay, on the south end of the larger Monterey Bay; one of Northern California’s natural wonders and marine life habitats. With a heritage of the Old World, this natural artist’s colony, hub of wealth, comfortable homes, and culturally engaged society, still manages to throw open its arms to visitors from all over the world.

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One of the many galleries in Carmel

With big brother Monterey just over the hill to the north, and the enchanting Highway One route to Big Sur to the south, Carmel simply says, “Stay and rest awhile.” It is very easy to comply. All are welcome here.

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The venerable drug store in downtown Carmel

Having weathered some criticism for “commercialization” over the years, (if the easy-on-the-eyes architecture, and brilliant merchandising skills in the shop and gallery windows is to be criticized), drive down to your local strip mall before you make a judgment. Sure, we all miss the truly funky artist’s colonies that flourished along the California coast, but let’s face it, things change, and sometimes they get better. Carmel is a case in point.

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Get ready for some treats here.

Let’s talk a little about Carmel’s history. As with many California coastal areas, tribes of Native Americans, the Esselen and Ohlone along the Central Coast, flourished before the Europeans showed up in the early 1600’s, claiming the area for Spain. Carmel Valley was named for Our Lady of Mount Carmel. The big names showed up in the mid-1700’s: Gaspar de Portolá and Father Junipero Serra, and soon the historic Carmel Mission was established. As usual, in spite of some frequent good intentions, European diseases decimated the Native Americans and they either died out from illness or fled to the mountains to the south due to the treatment by the Spaniards. Father Serra died in 1784, but not before helping to establish the famous chain of missions throughout California. Highway One is called El Camino Real, “The King’s Highway.” as many have known it, and many old missions can be visited along its beautiful route. In 1848, after the Mexican-American war, Carmel became part of the United States, ceded by Mexico, with California becoming a state two years later.

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Some of the treats!

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Clint in the window.

An art colony was born, seismically, if you will, after San Francisco’s disastrous 1906 earthquake. Artists of all disciplines fled San Francisco for the south, coincidentally supplementing another growing art community in Los Angeles, which continues to enjoy worldwide renown. But many artists simply stopped, agog, in Carmel, and there they stayed and worked. New venues such as The Arts and Crafts Theater and The Forest Theater evolved and a visual arts community that included early photographers such as Arnold Genthe, Edward Weston and Ansel Adams, arrived and thrived. Musically, among other events, the Carmel Bach Festival has been celebrating J.S. Bach since 1935. The feeling of an artist’s workplace still permeates the quiet streets.

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One of the many working artists’ studios in Carmel-by-the-sea.

It would be hard to imagine a more connected place to stay in Carmel than The Cypress Inn; wonderfully linked to the town’s history, warmly preserved by the ownership of Doris Day and Dennis Le Vett, and managed with a big smile by the very capable Fiona VanderWall and her accommodating staff.

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The wonderful Cypress Inn.

Checking in to the 44-room establishment, at the corner of 7th and Lincoln, is to step into a 1920s building suggesting a Mediterranean-Moroccan style, rich in wood, window treatments hung from forge-twisted iron rods and venerable tile floors. Doris Day memorabilia are tastefully displayed in the lobby and other parts of the Cypress Inn and are enjoyable to review. Our suite overlooked Lincoln Street and had a delightful balcony facing west, and a spacious circular Jacuzzi tub in the large bathroom. Top shelf linens and a lovely inset fireplace also set an elegant tone.

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The Cypress Inn is very pet-welcoming.

If you travel with your dog, The Cypress Inn especially welcomes you, as they are one of California’s most pet-friendly establishments. While we were sans pet, we thoroughly enjoyed the well-behaved dogs that came to the abundant continental breakfast with their owners. Dogs and their humans also showed up for the afternoon Yappy Hour at Terry’s Lounge, the Cypress Inn’s great bar/restaurant. You could feel the popularity with the locals who gather daily for some libation, and fun pet sharing. Yappy Hour is fun, remarkably quiet, and entertaining.

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The Cypress Inn lobby with some Doris Day memorabilia.

Terry’s Lounge, named for Doris Day’s late son, music producer Terry Melcher, is a cozy, elegant place to eat and drink. Mixologist Will Larkin, whose family roots are deep in Northern California history, has an amazing grasp of wines and liquors with a solid knowledge of beers. Not to be missed is the cocktail menu, which features wonderful quotes from famous movie stars. My favorite is Mae West’s, “Why don’t you slip out of those wet clothes and into a dry martini.” Cocktails at Terry’s Lounge are fun and edifying!

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One of the public rooms off the Cypress Inn lobby.

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The walk along Scenic drive.

We ate at the bar two nights in a row and Will was generous in sharing his knowledge of food and drink. Food and Beverage Manager Jonathan Bagley has made the most of a small-plate concept in keeping ingredients as local as possible and Terry’s Lounge is signed on with the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program, which monitors species threatened with overfishing. Among the items we enjoyed were delicate, briny Miyagi oysters from the Hog Island Oyster Farm at Tomales Bay, seared Ahi Tuna with a light butternut squash cream sauce, house-roasted beet salad with goat cheese, and a stand-out watercress and apple salad. The burger and fries on the menu is enough for two! Finally, Will recommended a delicious Hahn Winery 2010 Santa Lucia Ridge Pinot Noir, a smooth, fruit-forward vintage that rivals any California or Oregon Pinot Noir we’ve tasted. Terry’s Lounge has a comfortable, local feel to it and it became our favorite place to eat in Carmel.

Now for a nice walk. You won’t find too many more picturesque strolls than along Scenic Drive in Carmel-by-the-Sea. With the Cypress Inn being located right in the middle of Carmel, it is a short drive or walk down the hill to Carmel City Beach.

Scenic Drive takes off to the south, and the walk, either on the easily accessible beach or on the lovely street-level path, is dreamy. Kelp, Cypress trees, a distant fog bank, and the odd sea lions and sea otters make Carmel Bay a signature of this part of the California coast.

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The ubiquitous Cypress trees of the Monterey Peninsula.

Along Scenic Drive, oceanfront homes, some modest, some daringly cantilevered over the water, dazzle, but the sea is the real star. The fresh ocean air is a tonic for the soul and this walk is one of the things that draws visitors back time after time. Forget your other concerns for a while, breathe in this air and enjoy the moment. Hug your partner a little closer and feel the gratitude for being able to be right there. You’ll find shared smiles among strangers along Scenic Drive.

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Just a touch of Carmel’s arty nature.

Returning to the town center, possibly via a big loop including Mission Ranch and the Carmel Mission, nosing around the art galleries can be a lovely way to spend an afternoon. The bar for art in Carmel, as historically noted above, is set high. Gallery representation is precious to working artists, and the vetting process for exhibition in this artist’s colony is comprehensive. Explore! The surprise of looking down a small alley and seeing a metal sculpture studio, or finding the precise seascape for your living room in a gallery window, awaits.

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Along the famous 17-Mile Drive.

Unless you’ve decided to stay forever in Carmel-by-the-Sea, the time comes to leave.  When you do, please do yourselves a favor and pay the fee to drive the world-famous 17-Mile Drive through Pebble Beach to Pacific Grove. The sea vistas, the famous Del Monte Lodge, the Inn at Spanish Bay, Del Monte Forest, the generous turnouts along the rugged shoreline, and the spectacular estates that speak of wealth, old and new, make this trip worthwhile. We gazed at the breaking waves for what seemed a very long time on The Drive. Two sea otters were busy in a cove, acting like the clowns they are, and a couple of deer ambled along, completely comfortable with passing cars.

Carmel remains a very special place in the hearts and minds of world travelers and locals alike. And when you go, here are some references for you:

http://www.carmelcalifornia.com/

http://www.cypress-inn.com/

http://www.stayincarmel.org

http://www.pebblebeach.com/

Palm Springs – Natural Beauty High and Low

Story and Photos © Frank DiMarco

The thing I like the most about the Palm Springs Tram is that the cabin rotates while you are transported to and from the lofty Mountain Station 8,516 feet into the mountains of San Jacinto State Park.

Thus begins a jaunt to enjoy some of the “high” natural beauty of the Palm Springs area.

You will rise through five unique life zones from the Sonoran Desert Zone at the bottom to the Arctic Alpine Zone at the top. In the winter expect some snow; in the summer expect some real heat. Either way, water is a smart companion, and packing a lunch for a picnic is a great idea.

View from The Palm Springs Tram

On our trip up we shared the tram cabin with an international range of people from elderly grandmothers to young eco-hipsters with hi-tech snowshoes and camping gear, ready to adventure beyond the “To Wilderness” sign on the trail guide. Once on top, taking a few moments to acclimate to the altitude, you can set off for a modest hike from Mountain Station along several well-marked trails or set yourself up for a more extensive guided or self-guided hike with advice from the Adventure Center, a short distance from the Mountain Station terminal. None of the trails will disappoint as this is breathtakingly beautiful and rugged country.

A beautiful wilderness awaits at the top of the tram

Though wildlife frequently tends to stay hidden from humans, this is a habitat for bighorn sheep, bobcats, mountain lions, coyotes, hawks, foxes and deer, along with the usual suspects of birds and squirrels. Alpine flora of the area can range from cactus to white fir, big cone pines and colorful wildflowers, especially in the Spring.

Awesome views from Mountain Station

 

Once you are back to Mountain Station from your hike, a visit to the Forestry Department shop is very interesting as is the adjacent display of taxidermy. And, importantly, the Lookout Lounge serves a delicious Bloody Mary while food is served in two restaurants in this mountain aerie.

The tram operates from 10AM on weekdays and 8AM on weekends with the last tram down at 9:45PM, giving you a full-day in the mountains if you wish. More details at http://www.pstramway.com Tel. 760.325.1449

So, what do I mean by the “low” natural beauty of Palm Springs? This refers to the cool canyons of the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation. The Aqua Caliente Band of the Cahuilla Indians have been in the Palm Springs area for centuries. In ancient times they thrived due to a good water supply, growing a wide range of crops as well as sustainably harvesting the natural wildlife and plants.

Palm grove in the Indian Canyons in Palm Springs

With the 1876 acts of the U.S. Government, the Agua Caliente Indians were deeded 32,000 acres of the area for their homeland, some of the land lying within the Palm Springs city limits. Now, several of the beautiful canyons are listed on the National Register of Historic Places and a hike in them is a unique experience.

To get to the Indian Canyons, drive out South Palm Canyon Drive and you’ll come to the entrance where you’ll pay admission to this sacred land and receive a good trail map. The trails are marked by difficulty so visitors can match their strength and health to their hikes.

Along the Andreas Trail in Indian Canyons area.

We hiked in both the Andreas and Palm Canyons and found them to be tranquil and full of a sense of history. The rocks and flora are beautiful with the ancient palms the stars of this natural beauty show. Palm Canyon, 15 miles deep, is redolent with this sense of history and with examples of ancient living quarters trailside. Frequent ranger talks are given at the trailhead Trading Post. While informal, these talks draw visitors and a good place to learn some details about how the ancient tribe members lived.

Some of the awesome cacti plants in Indian Canyons.

As always, plan ahead, and pay close attention to the precautions of hiking in the desert. Stay hydrated, sun-protected and be watchful for rattlesnakes.

Tranquil creekside area along Palm Canyon Trail in Indian Canyons.

More information: http://www.indian-canyons.com Tel. 760.323.6018 Before moving on, some additional websites for desert touring are http://www.desertmountains.org and http://www.nps.gov/jotr which will provide you with some basic information about a side trip to the beautiful Joshua Tree National Park located near Palm Springs.

OK, let’s eat.

Breakfast can be a make-or-break-the-day meal and I would challenge anyone to find a more consistent and hearty morning meal than Elmer’s at 1030 E. Palm Canyon Drive. The staff at the Palm Springs incarnation is particularly cohesive in their service and if you are looking for fare that will get you through a morning hike and beyond, Elmer’s is for you. On our recent visit, it was encouraging to see one of the owner’s of all the Elmer’s working the door, and greeting people around the restaurant. Loved the berry crepes. http://eatatelmers.com/?q=content/see-whats-cooking

For lighter morning fare and a scene-and-be-seen experience, try Palm Springs Koffi at 515 North Palm Canyon Drive. On a typical blue-sky Palm Springs morning, we took our coffees and pastries out back where there are lots of chairs available on the large lawn for dawdling over a paper, comparing dog notes or simply people watching; a fun place with a sistership now open at 1700 South Camino Real. http://www.kofficoffee.com

Ernesto Gastelum shares a passion for his native Sinaloan cooking with his customers at Rio Azul at 350 South Indian Canyon Drive. I’ve never had guacamole prepared tableside, a starter treat which we followed with Carne Asada with Enchilada and Adobado Shrimp. Great Margaritas and an entertaining and personable floor staff. http://www.rioazulpalmsprings.com

I’ll also include a couple of recommendations from my friend and food blogger Amy Sherman http://www.cookingwithamy.com She likes Trio Restaurant at 707 North Canyon Drive http://www.triopalmsprings.com for their Porterhouse Pork Chop and Australian Sea Bass and the King’s Highway in the Ace Hotel at 701 East Palm Canyon for their Ricotta Pancakes and Homemade Lox. http://www.acehotel.com/palmsprings

With air service directly into Palm Springs from major hubs, and a couple ofhours drive from L.A. proper, Palm Springs is accessible to a wide-range of visitors. Lodging is abundant at numerous retro-themed hotels and home rentals are a big thing as well. Web searches will surprise you with the options for stays.

Magic hours like this are common in Palm Springs.

A personal favorite of mine is the elegant and quiet Korakia Pensione at 257 S. Patencio Road with its amazing history, ambience and personal attention. Set close to the west mountains, it is central to town but with the feel of “off on your own.” We had an delightful stay there a few years ago and a recent re-observation was encouraging. http://www.korakia.com/ Even if you don’t stay there, check out the history on their website and drive by for a look.

Palm Springs, has a very long history with artistic people and the arts in general. The Palm Springs International Film Festival draws big name speakers and films and frequent food, wine and art festivals draw lots of visitors. Outdoor activities such as golf, biking and hiking will keep your interest and keep you in shape. Shopping? Lots of it along the main drag.

Downtown Palm Springs is famous for The Follies.

And don’t forget one of the longest running (30 years) fun shows in the desert, the Fabulous Palm Springs Follies! http://www.psfollies.com

Visit http://www.visitpalmsprings.com/ for lots more information on this great, venerable desert destination. And enjoy the “highs and lows” of Palm Springs’ beautiful setting.

I’ve posted more images at http://www.dimarcoimages.com/palmsprings/