Desert, Ocean and Luxury at the Tip of Baja, California

Sunrise at Cabo San Lucas

Sunrise at Cabo San Lucas

When you go to “Cabo”, the first phrase in Spanish you should know, after “Gracias” and “Por Favor” are, “¿Es Usted Choyero?” This is a great conversation starter as it means “Are you Baja born?” “Choyero” derives its name from the beautiful and ubiquitous Cholla cactus of the Baja Peninsula. Choyeros are very proud of their State of Baja, the youngest state in the Mexican federation. Before becoming the Free and Sovereign State of Baja California in 1953, it was a wild, sparsely populated territory ruled by the powers in Mexico City.

Our AirTran flight from the very traveler-friendly Orange County Airport took us over enough of Baja to convince anyone it is still very sparsely populated. Most of Baja is still a wild expanse of desert, mountains, washes and tiny clumps of ranch houses and small towns beautifully sandwiched between a blue Pacific Ocean and an equally “azul” Mar de Cortez. It is easy to shake one’s head and wonder why this gorgeous 27,000 square miles has not been developed more. But, then, it wouldn’t be such a treasure of a place. A good exercise is to open a Baja roadmap and see what that 1000 miles between the U.S. border and Cabo San Lucas looks like. You can draw your own conclusions.

Los Arcos, Lands End, Cabo San Lucas

Los Arcos, Lands End, Cabo San Lucas

But let’s get to the luxury part before our thoughts get too parched. Most readers have a good sense of Cabo San Lucas’ location at the tip of Baja; but CSL is only half the story. San Jose Del Cabo, where most people arrive by air, is a wonderful old Mexican town that anchors the other end of the ocean road along Baja’s southern tip. The visitor accomodations that sit, beachfront, along this corridor are our next topic.

The Sheraton Hacienda Del Mar.

The Sheraton Hacienda Del Mar.

Our two most recent experiences included a pair of Starwood resorts, the Sheraton Hacienda Del Mar Golf and Spa Resort Los Cabos and the Westin Resort and Spa Los Cabos. Both sit on dramatic beaches (mind the color of the cautionary flags) and offer distinctly different styles of accomodations.

Colonial styles at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar.

Colonial styles at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar.

Apply named because of its “old Mexico” ambience, the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar, on Tortuga Beach, gave us a cozy feel. We appreciated the use of tile, wrought iron, cobblestones and fountains incorporated into the overall concept. Some beautiful artwork and artifacts also enhance the feeling of a traditional Mexican establishment. One could imagine a honeymoon here and, yet, we saw families enjoying the amenities such as the “Kids Pool” and the “Kids Club,” candidly a relief for those of us who seek the quieter aspects of a resort. Clearly, the Sheraton folks have this figured out. We were impressed with the tranquility of this property from the moment we checked in.

Infinity pool at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar.

Infinity pool at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar.

Our first night’s meal was a splendid one at the resort’s 5-Diamond De Cortez Mesquite grill, with its lovely terrace by the ocean. With lower Baja’s dependably good weather, meals like this are dreamy. We experienced Executive Chef Manuel de Luca’s menu executed by Chef Salvador Campozano. We began with a creamy lobster bisque followed by a salad of pear, blue cheese, nuts and truffled honey. Before the main course, we tasted a delightful lamb ravioli served with morel mushroom foam and dill.

That’s right, mushroom foam. We chose, for our main course, the Seafood Skillet, in which a delightful menage of lobster tail, shrimp, scallops, mussels and sea bass soak flavorfully in a rum-hinted sauce, served in a fresh coconut. The wines we enjoyed most were reds and whites from Valle de Guadalupe, east of Ensenada in Northern Baja. A passion fruit mousse with fresh berries in a peppercorn crust provided the perfect palate relief after the richness of the main meal. These folks know what they are doing and you are on vacation. Go for it! They will even arrange for your large group to dine on the beach. In a world-class resort, usually all you have to do is ask, and many things can magically be arranged.

Artifacts at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar emphasize the colonial feel of the resort.

Artifacts at the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar emphasize the colonial feel of the resort.

General Manager Renato Mendonca, with 30 years in the hotel business, and 5 years at the Sheraton Hacienda, recently oversaw an extensive renovation and the rooms show it. Our ocean-view room had its own terrace and we went to sleep that first night with the doors open to the sound of the dramatic surf. Delicious.

Of particular note at the Hacienda are the wonderful infinity pools and spas that are beachside, with the palapa bar happily nearby. Elbows up on the edge of the infinity pool, gazing out at the ocean, watching the waves break is a tonic. Time for reflection and a soul recharge. This is a good place to do it.

And, on a different scale and style, so is the Westin Los Cabos, our next destination.

Part of the dramatic setting at the Westin Los Cabos.

Part of the dramatic setting at the Westin Los Cabos.

The entrance road to the Westin Los Cabos, winding down from the main (now 4-lane) Los Cabos-San Jose Del Cabo highway, doesn’t quite prepare you for the dramatic plaza that adjoins the grand open-air lobby of this Javier Sordo Madaleno-designed resort.

The colors. As Westin Tour Sales Manager Edward Burgos says, ” The colors of the hotel are blue for the ocean, yellow for the sun and pink for the warmth of the Mexican culture. We couldn’t agree more. It is a stunning architectural achievement.

Soothing colors at the Westin Los Cabos.

Soothing colors at the Westin Los Cabos.

Every room has an ocean view and, like the Sheraton, the Westin is set on a remarkably dramatic beach and sleeping with the sound of waves each night adds value to your stay.

If you are not, by chance, a Starwood member, be sure to join as it is a huge benefit when you stay at a Starwood property such as the Sheraton Hacienda or the Westin Los Cabos. A good example of this is a the great buffet breakfasts at the Westin’s Royal Beach Club. Located in an oversized private suite with a long terrace overlooking the beach, it is an extra treat just for being a Starwood member.

Every room has an ocean view at the Westin Los Cabos.

Every room has an ocean view at the Westin Los Cabos.

During our Westin stay we observed a couple of lovely beach weddings and I asked Westin Event Specialist Juan Pablo Colmenero about their wedding business. He told me that they do about 52 weddings per year but never more than one wedding per day. Recently, he said, they had been hosting as many as 300 people in week-long international wedding celebrations.

We wished we had timed our visit to see one of these wonderful, colorful mixture of cultures on the tip of Baja, California. Mr. Colmenero said the Westin’s kitchen staff had been having a great time working with the East Indian chefs who had been added to the mix. Sounds like a great movie!

In addition to the large weddings, the Westin frequently has a full buy-out from corporate event planners, making the resort a great, private club for a large business gathering. Both the Sheraton Hacienda and the Westin offer complete golf packages with excellent courses and amenities.

The remarkable executive chef Manuel Peruyero oversees all of the food at the Westin. We dined at the La Playa Restaurant and tasted our first “Westin Margarita.” As Margarita aficionados, we agreed that there was a little something extra to them. Fish tacos. Gotta love them, and La Playa serves some great ones, typically made with fresh local sea bass. We also had a chance to enjoy one of the “dinners on the beach” that these hotels are renowned for. The buffet was comprised of nearly more choices than we could handle. Everything from grilled (a la parilla) meats and fish to delicious salsas, fresh guacamole and taco makings, all under the stars, with a lovely firepit nearby. The stunning views from the Westin’s Arrecifes Restaurant is also a must during your stay with its cocktail patio especially appealling. Service throughout the hotel and restaurants is a serious staff committment and a joy for guests.

Like the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar, the Westin Los Cabos can arrange a meal on the beach.

Like the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar, the Westin Los Cabos can arrange a meal on the beach.

The spa at The Westin Resort & Spa provides the pleasurable services you hope for in this soothing destination. Relaxing manicures, pedicures, massages, facials are available in calm, quiet, elegant surroundings. La Señora enjoyed an hour of classic Swedish full body massage in a clean, simple room with delicious aromas. The therapist was an experienced and excellent professional. Other restorative massage types are offered, including deep tissue, hot stone, reflexology and sports massage. After the massage she reluctantly floated off the massage table and downstairs to wake up with sauna, steam, and shower. Fresh, iced water is always handy, and white towels, robes and slippers are provided for comfort and harmony. The Westin is justifiably proud of this spa by the sea.

Importantly, both the Sheraton Hacienda and Westin Los Cabos are fully committed to sustainability and the community. The former sponsors and mentors a charity for parentless children and both hotels make sure extra food gets to both employees and members of the community in need.

So, you want to leave the property? What? Well, if you do, you are in for various wonderful treats. A walk around San Jose del Cabo’s historic district is a rich experience. Clean streets, colorful buildings and a great deal of art. This is an historic Mexican town, a port, and sister city to Cabo San Lucas at the other end of the corridor at the tip of Baja. San Jose del Cabo has some excellent restaurants and even some new places like Rock and Brews for the rock and roll crowd (they serve some good pizza, too).

Rock and Brews, San Jose Del Cabo.

Rock and Brews, San Jose Del Cabo.

Cabo San Lucas fishing fleet will take you deep sea fishing.

Cabo San Lucas fishing fleet will take you deep sea fishing.

At the other end of the sea road corridor there is Cabo San Lucas, with its huge charter fishing fleet, Lover’s Beach at Los Arcos (the arches at the very tip of Baja) and numerous bars and restaurants, including the legendary Squid Row and Giggling Marlin. Our favorite Cabo San Lucas restaurant has long been Mi Casa, serving some delicious authentic Mexican cuisine in a less raucous atmosphere than some of the party bars.

Fresh breads at the Penny Lane Cafe in Cabo San Lucas.

Fresh breads at the Penny Lane Cafe in Cabo San Lucas.

 

 

Rancher Lisa Whitt with fresh goat cheeses at the Penny Lane Cafe's weekly farmer's market.

Rancher Lisa Whitt with fresh goat cheeses at the Penny Lane Cafe’s twice-weekly farmer’s markets.

And here’s a special insider’s tip: Penny Lane Cafe on Camino del Colegio in Cabo San Lucas. Breakfast, lunch and dinner with the best locally sourced, organic ingredients. Twice a week owner Monica Diaz Rivera manages an adjacent organic food market with fresh breads, cheeses, vegetables and other wonderful local foods all sourced from local farms. It was here I met Lisa Whitt who, with her husband, produces a remarkable range of exquisite goat cheeses on their farm about 2 hours from Cabo San Lucas. Another tip: Try the take out pork from Los Michoacanos Carnitas.

For activities such as tours, boating trips, outback adventures etc., the folks at Terramar can arrange everything. Terramar’s website is worth a visit and the experience we had with them was professional and fun. Their staff all speak excellent English (and will help you with your Spanish).

Water tours are easily available from the Cabo San Lucas waterfront.

Water tours are easily available from the Cabo San Lucas waterfront.

And booking a whale-watching trip, in-season can be rewarding.

And booking a whale-watching trip, in-season can be rewarding.

Of, course, don't forget to learn about the grades of tequilas!

Of, course, don’t forget to learn about the grades of tequilas!

Finally, for those of you who are curious about renting a private home in the area (and there are some spectacular ones), Cabo Dreams Rentals impressed us with their offerings and Property Manager Cesar Claro seems to have some of the best places to show. Our favorite was Casa Miramar, which sits high in the exclusive Pedregal community, directly above the beautiful Playa Solmar stretching out to internationally famous Land’s End.

Beautiful Casa Miramar in Cabo San Lucas.   Many homes like this are available for vacation rental.

Beautiful Casa Miramar in Cabo San Lucas. Many homes like this are available for vacation rental.

Baja, California. Always a great idea for a getaway. ¡Buen Viaje!

 

Sheraton Hacienda del Mar: http:/www.sheraton.com/haciendadelmar

Westin Resort & Spa Los Cabos: http://www.westin.com/loscabos

Terramar: http://www.terramardestinations.com

Baja Outback: http://www.bajaoutback.com

Penny Lane Cafe: http://pennylanecafe.com

Cabo Dream Rentals: http://www.cabodreamsrentals.com

Mi Casa: http://www.micasarestaurant.com.mx

AirTran: http://www.airtran.com

Palm Springs – Natural Beauty High and Low

Story and Photos © Frank DiMarco

The thing I like the most about the Palm Springs Tram is that the cabin rotates while you are transported to and from the lofty Mountain Station 8,516 feet into the mountains of San Jacinto State Park.

Thus begins a jaunt to enjoy some of the “high” natural beauty of the Palm Springs area.

You will rise through five unique life zones from the Sonoran Desert Zone at the bottom to the Arctic Alpine Zone at the top. In the winter expect some snow; in the summer expect some real heat. Either way, water is a smart companion, and packing a lunch for a picnic is a great idea.

View from The Palm Springs Tram

On our trip up we shared the tram cabin with an international range of people from elderly grandmothers to young eco-hipsters with hi-tech snowshoes and camping gear, ready to adventure beyond the “To Wilderness” sign on the trail guide. Once on top, taking a few moments to acclimate to the altitude, you can set off for a modest hike from Mountain Station along several well-marked trails or set yourself up for a more extensive guided or self-guided hike with advice from the Adventure Center, a short distance from the Mountain Station terminal. None of the trails will disappoint as this is breathtakingly beautiful and rugged country.

A beautiful wilderness awaits at the top of the tram

Though wildlife frequently tends to stay hidden from humans, this is a habitat for bighorn sheep, bobcats, mountain lions, coyotes, hawks, foxes and deer, along with the usual suspects of birds and squirrels. Alpine flora of the area can range from cactus to white fir, big cone pines and colorful wildflowers, especially in the Spring.

Awesome views from Mountain Station

 

Once you are back to Mountain Station from your hike, a visit to the Forestry Department shop is very interesting as is the adjacent display of taxidermy. And, importantly, the Lookout Lounge serves a delicious Bloody Mary while food is served in two restaurants in this mountain aerie.

The tram operates from 10AM on weekdays and 8AM on weekends with the last tram down at 9:45PM, giving you a full-day in the mountains if you wish. More details at http://www.pstramway.com Tel. 760.325.1449

So, what do I mean by the “low” natural beauty of Palm Springs? This refers to the cool canyons of the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation. The Aqua Caliente Band of the Cahuilla Indians have been in the Palm Springs area for centuries. In ancient times they thrived due to a good water supply, growing a wide range of crops as well as sustainably harvesting the natural wildlife and plants.

Palm grove in the Indian Canyons in Palm Springs

With the 1876 acts of the U.S. Government, the Agua Caliente Indians were deeded 32,000 acres of the area for their homeland, some of the land lying within the Palm Springs city limits. Now, several of the beautiful canyons are listed on the National Register of Historic Places and a hike in them is a unique experience.

To get to the Indian Canyons, drive out South Palm Canyon Drive and you’ll come to the entrance where you’ll pay admission to this sacred land and receive a good trail map. The trails are marked by difficulty so visitors can match their strength and health to their hikes.

Along the Andreas Trail in Indian Canyons area.

We hiked in both the Andreas and Palm Canyons and found them to be tranquil and full of a sense of history. The rocks and flora are beautiful with the ancient palms the stars of this natural beauty show. Palm Canyon, 15 miles deep, is redolent with this sense of history and with examples of ancient living quarters trailside. Frequent ranger talks are given at the trailhead Trading Post. While informal, these talks draw visitors and a good place to learn some details about how the ancient tribe members lived.

Some of the awesome cacti plants in Indian Canyons.

As always, plan ahead, and pay close attention to the precautions of hiking in the desert. Stay hydrated, sun-protected and be watchful for rattlesnakes.

Tranquil creekside area along Palm Canyon Trail in Indian Canyons.

More information: http://www.indian-canyons.com Tel. 760.323.6018 Before moving on, some additional websites for desert touring are http://www.desertmountains.org and http://www.nps.gov/jotr which will provide you with some basic information about a side trip to the beautiful Joshua Tree National Park located near Palm Springs.

OK, let’s eat.

Breakfast can be a make-or-break-the-day meal and I would challenge anyone to find a more consistent and hearty morning meal than Elmer’s at 1030 E. Palm Canyon Drive. The staff at the Palm Springs incarnation is particularly cohesive in their service and if you are looking for fare that will get you through a morning hike and beyond, Elmer’s is for you. On our recent visit, it was encouraging to see one of the owner’s of all the Elmer’s working the door, and greeting people around the restaurant. Loved the berry crepes. http://eatatelmers.com/?q=content/see-whats-cooking

For lighter morning fare and a scene-and-be-seen experience, try Palm Springs Koffi at 515 North Palm Canyon Drive. On a typical blue-sky Palm Springs morning, we took our coffees and pastries out back where there are lots of chairs available on the large lawn for dawdling over a paper, comparing dog notes or simply people watching; a fun place with a sistership now open at 1700 South Camino Real. http://www.kofficoffee.com

Ernesto Gastelum shares a passion for his native Sinaloan cooking with his customers at Rio Azul at 350 South Indian Canyon Drive. I’ve never had guacamole prepared tableside, a starter treat which we followed with Carne Asada with Enchilada and Adobado Shrimp. Great Margaritas and an entertaining and personable floor staff. http://www.rioazulpalmsprings.com

I’ll also include a couple of recommendations from my friend and food blogger Amy Sherman http://www.cookingwithamy.com She likes Trio Restaurant at 707 North Canyon Drive http://www.triopalmsprings.com for their Porterhouse Pork Chop and Australian Sea Bass and the King’s Highway in the Ace Hotel at 701 East Palm Canyon for their Ricotta Pancakes and Homemade Lox. http://www.acehotel.com/palmsprings

With air service directly into Palm Springs from major hubs, and a couple ofhours drive from L.A. proper, Palm Springs is accessible to a wide-range of visitors. Lodging is abundant at numerous retro-themed hotels and home rentals are a big thing as well. Web searches will surprise you with the options for stays.

Magic hours like this are common in Palm Springs.

A personal favorite of mine is the elegant and quiet Korakia Pensione at 257 S. Patencio Road with its amazing history, ambience and personal attention. Set close to the west mountains, it is central to town but with the feel of “off on your own.” We had an delightful stay there a few years ago and a recent re-observation was encouraging. http://www.korakia.com/ Even if you don’t stay there, check out the history on their website and drive by for a look.

Palm Springs, has a very long history with artistic people and the arts in general. The Palm Springs International Film Festival draws big name speakers and films and frequent food, wine and art festivals draw lots of visitors. Outdoor activities such as golf, biking and hiking will keep your interest and keep you in shape. Shopping? Lots of it along the main drag.

Downtown Palm Springs is famous for The Follies.

And don’t forget one of the longest running (30 years) fun shows in the desert, the Fabulous Palm Springs Follies! http://www.psfollies.com

Visit http://www.visitpalmsprings.com/ for lots more information on this great, venerable desert destination. And enjoy the “highs and lows” of Palm Springs’ beautiful setting.

I’ve posted more images at http://www.dimarcoimages.com/palmsprings/